Ma Ra'aytu wa Ma Sami'tu

What I Have Seen and Heard

by Khairuddin al-Zarkali (1309 AH / 1893 CE - 1396 AH / 1976 CE)

Her text was edited and annotated by Mohannad Mubaideen and Fares Surmeli. Their contributions in editing and providing commentary are essential in ensuring the accuracy and enhancing the understanding of the content, especially in the context of historical and cultural works like this one. Their expertise adds significant value to the publication, making it a reliable and informative resource for readers and researchers interested in the subject matter.

The Royal Hashemite Documentation Center in Jordan has released a new, revised edition of the book "Ma Ra'aytu Wa Ma Sami'tu" by Khair al-Din al-Zarkali. The book covers the author's journey, which lasted for six months, starting from his departure from Syria on the day of Maysalun and ending in Heliopolis, Cairo, upon his return from Mecca. In the book, al-Zarkali was able to gather rich historical and literary material from the period, which is considered significant in history. The book begins with the author's journey to meet Sharif Hussein, with an introductory section composed of poetic verses in which al-Zarkali describes the tragedies that Syria experienced under French occupation on the day of Maysalun.

Al-Zarkali talks about the dissolution of the army after the French occupation and how his name was included in the lists of those sentenced to death. He fled to Haifa and met friends who were also sentenced to death, and then he headed to Egypt, expressing his amazement upon arriving in Cairo and the fear he felt due to the confusion of the road. He then mentions his journey from Egypt to Mecca, addressing some of the challenges he faced.

In his book, al-Zarkali does not hide his criticism of the political elite ruling in Syria at the time. He describes them as blind to reality and points out their indecision in the face of the occupiers' demands. He also criticizes King Faisal's decision to disband the army and yield to the wishes of General Gouraud.

The Zarkali clarifies some political and military matters, referring to how the British misled Sharif Hussein. He discusses the correspondence between Sharif Hussein and Sir Henry McMahon, and how the British embellished their communications with promises that were not fulfilled. Zarkali describes the British as indifferent in other chapters of the book. He comments on Sharif Hussein's reaction, noting that he did not stand idly by in the face of Western interference but protested, only to have the British deny their agreements and break their pledges. In an article included in this edition of the book, published posthumously, Zarkali indicates that Sharif Hussein intended to revolt again due to the British breaking their promises. He also elaborates on the military organization adopted by Sharif Hussein, dividing it into two parts: the regular forces and the Bedouin, among other topics detailed in the book.

Furthermore, Zarkali presents a portrait of King Sharif Hussein bin Ali, highlighting some of his characteristics. He does not delve into the King's persona until after his return from Taif, dedicating a chapter to this journey. He speaks about his life, traits, and qualities, noting Sharif's wisdom, eloquence, justice, and other details about his life and the revolution.

The first chapter of Zarkali's book, titled "From Damascus to Mecca," is followed by a heading indicating the cities he passed through until his arrival in Mecca from Damascus, in the following manner: "The Night of Maysalun, On the Train, In Haifa, From Haifa to Cairo, From Cairo to Suez, In Jeddah, To Mecca, In Al-Mukhlawan." In this section, Zarkali describes the start of his journey, detailing the surrounding scene and the pain within it, eventually pointing to the latent anger in the street. He does not hide his criticism, along with that of many Syrians, of the weakness and indecision prevalent in the Syrian political class and King Faisal, describing how they submitted to the incoming French invader intent on demolishing the state. Zarkali notes that despite their government's frailty, the Syrians refused to be subdued and rebelled, leaving a bloody mark in history, but the government's attempts to suppress this led to great chaos. He also refers to the chaos that the country experienced on that day and the crisis faced by the King and his government. The French response to their submission was not as they expected, as the army advanced, forcing the King to issue a war order, leading to the Battle of Maysalun. Zarkali mentions some details of the battle but does not dwell on them extensively. He recalls how he was informed that his name was on the execution list, so he did not spend that night at his home. Then Zarkali moves to another scene and a subsection in his book, using a narrative style where he mentions the scene's location before delving into its details. On his train journey, Zarkali recounts the people he met and the stations he passed through, touching upon some events that occurred while he was on the train and the stations he visited. For instance, he discusses his arrival in Samakh, which he describes as the boundary between the eastern and southern regions of fragmented Syria, marking the divide between the French and British colonies in torn Syria. Readers can learn more about the mentioned areas and characters in the footnotes provided by the book's editors, who refer back to scholarly sources to confirm or correct what Zarkali mentions.

Zarkali then moves on to discuss his arrival in Haifa in a new chapter of his journey titled "In Haifa." He mentions his arrival there and how a friend, whom he does not name, accompanied and honored him, showing great fondness for Zarkali. This friend stayed with him during his visit to Ma'ruf Al-Rasafi when he learned that Rasafi was staying in Haifa. Zarkali also talks about the news he received about King Faisal and his political struggles with the French. He elaborates on a message the King received from the French, ordering him to leave Damascus with his family and entourage via a special train, and another telegram from the Prime Minister urging him to leave to prevent the bombing of the villages in Hauran and their inhabitants. The King complied, not wanting anyone to be harmed on his account.
After detailing the King's situation, Zarkali returns to the details of his own journey. In a new chapter titled "From Haifa to Cairo," he describes his train journey, expressing his impatience with the English's indifference and resorting to a ruse to board a train bound for Cairo. He took a first-class compartment for the comfort of having a place to sleep, recounting other details of the journey and the people he encountered on the train. Upon his arrival in Cairo, Zarkali does not describe the city, but in a brief paragraph titled "Cairo," he suggests that there is much written about the city for readers to discover its beauty and character. Instead, he focuses on the events that happened to him, starting this account in a new chapter of his book titled "The Pursuit."

In the chapter "The Pursuit" set in Cairo, Zarkali begins by mentioning what the newspaper vendors were shouting about the headlines of their papers. He writes about what he read in the newspaper that day, which published the names of those sentenced to death. Zarkali lists these names in his book, and the book's editors provide footnotes with descriptions of the individuals mentioned in the list. Among the 58 names, number 27 is that of Khair al-Din al-Zarkali, the author of the book, along with others who were sentenced to exile and confiscation of their properties.
Zarkali comments on the French 'madness' in Syria, their pursuit of its youth, residents, and children, not content with just destroying the country but also announcing their unjust sentences. He refers to the joint proclamation made on November 7, 1918, by the French and British governments, which stated their intention to liberate the lands from Ottoman incursion and save its people from Turkish oppression. Zarkali contrasts this declaration with the actual actions of the French.

He describes the impact of the death sentence news on him, highlighting its difficulty, and then notes that after all the deaths and hangings the Syrians had experienced, a death sentence no longer discouraged them. He points out that the occupier tries in every way to instill fear, but will not succeed.

Zarkali then returns to recount the events he experienced in Cairo, where he stayed for over two months. He talks about writing a letter with a fellow journalist to King Hussein, informing him of their arrival in Cairo and asking what was planned to resist the occupation's impact in Syria. Zarkali details how the King's envoy in Cairo contacted him and conveyed the King's invitation to visit the Hejaz via the Suez on the ship "Mansoura."

He notes that he did not have his passport, as he had left in haste, and a new passport was issued for him indicating that he was a Hejazi national born in Damascus. This part of Zarkali's account highlights the complexities and challenges faced during this tumultuous period, including the need for quick adaptations and the reliance on connections and improvisation in the face of political upheaval and displacement.
In a new chapter of his book titled "From Cairo to Mecca," Zarkali delves into the details of his journey and the events he encountered since departing from the new city in Cairo, "Heliopolis." He recounts incidents that almost caused him to miss the ship, mentioning his eagerness to catch it. Once on board, they sailed the Red Sea, which Zarkali refers to by its ancient name, "Al-Qulzum." He discusses details of the voyage, the tedium he experienced on the ship, and his encounter with a person named Husni al-Amiri, identified in the book's footnote as an Egyptian literati.

After three days, Zarkali arrived in Jeddah, where he was received by Constantin bin Abdou, who took him to a guest house. He then proceeded to Mecca by order of the King, describing the journey's hardships until his arrival in Mecca. Upon reaching the Grand Mosque, he details the scene of the pilgrims circumambulating the Kaaba. Zarkali also recounts his emotional reunion with his friend Yusuf, who had left Damascus, highlighting the longing he felt during this encounter. This part of Zarkali's narrative vividly portrays the physical and emotional aspects of his journey, providing insight into his personal experiences and the historical context of his travels.

In a new chapter of his book titled "In Al-Mukhlawan," Zarkali narrates his visit to the house of governance after Yusuf asked him if he wanted to visit "our master." After heading to the house of rule, Zarkali briefly describes its appearance and arrangement. He then recounts his entry to meet the King, who welcomed him saying, "This is your country, my son! This is your country, my son!"
Zarkali details his stay in the royal house, the lifestyle there, and how he spent his days. In another chapter named "Farewell to the Prince," he discusses King Hussein's concern for Syria and his intention to send one of his sons there. The choice fell on Prince Abdullah to become the Emir of Ma'an.

Zarkali concludes the first chapter of his book with a section titled "Remembrance of Ta'if." In this part, he expresses his fondness for the historical sites he saw in Mecca and discusses his meetings with the King. In one such meeting, when the King spoke about Ta'if, he subsequently ordered the preparation of a trip for Zarkali and a group of Syrians in Mecca to visit Ta'if. This narrative gives an intimate glimpse into Zarkali's experiences and interactions during his time in the royal house and highlights the significant historical and political context of his journey.

In the second chapter of his book, titled "Between Mecca and Ta'if (Beginning of the Journey, In Arafat, To Shaddad, To Al-Kar, Mount Kara, In Al-Hada, To Ta'if)," Zarkali begins with a section named "Beginning of the Journey." He elaborates on the journey and the sites he passed, mentioning Hira Cave where Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) worshipped and where the first verses of the Quran were revealed. Zarkali describes their visit to the cave and their stop there, followed by their passage through Aqaba, where the Prophet was pledged allegiance, and then Mina, emphasizing its importance during the Hajj season, even though they did not stay there but he explains about the area.

Next, they moved towards Muzdalifah, where they performed the Fajr (dawn) prayer. In a new section titled "Arafat," Zarkali mentions Mount Arafat and the calmness enveloping it, as they were not there during the Hajj season. He provides detailed information about Arafat.

In the section "To Shaddad," he talks about their afternoon departure from Arafat to Wadi Numan, a valley frequently mentioned by poets. Zarkali speaks about the valley, its well, and its fertility. They crossed the valley, and Zarkali recalls several poets whose works he remembered while passing through these regions, rich in history and events.

He concludes this section with their descent into Shaddad, where they performed the Maghrib (sunset) prayer before heading to Al-Kar, noting that there isn’t much to describe on the journey from Shaddad to Al-Kar. After reaching Al-Hada, they proceeded to Ta'if. Zarkali touches upon the sense of security he felt during his journey, recalling a phrase that stuck in his mind, "Trust, my lord, that you are safe wherever you go." This narrative offers a detailed and reflective account of Zarkali's travels, connecting historical, religious, and personal elements.

In a new chapter titled "Ta'if," Zarkali explores his arrival in the city of Ta'if and delves into a detailed description of the city. He highlights its spring, fruits, vegetation, and springs, recalling what poets and travelers have said about it, describing it as a piece of Sham (the Levant) that was transferred to Hejaz. Zarkali then discusses Ta'if, noting that the discussion about Ta'if revolves around three main topics.

In the chapter "Ta'if," Zarkali briefly addresses three main aspects of Ta'if: its military and political position, its economic significance, and its historical importance. He dedicates three sections of this chapter to these topics.

Zarkali then discusses the etymology of the name 'Ta'if,' noting that he has heard many stories about its origin, most of which he finds unbelievable. He believes that the versions by Al-Qalqashandi and Yaqut al-Hamawi are more credible. According to these accounts, the ancient name of Ta'if was "Waj," and it later became known as Ta'if, attributed to the gatherings of the Thaqif tribe who built a surrounding wall (a “Tawaf” wall) around it, leading to its current name

In the section titled "Conquest of Ta'if," Zarkali discusses the early Islamic preaching in Ta'if and the hardships faced by Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) there. He briefly covers the details of Ta'if's entry into Islam.

Then, in a section named "The Expulsion of the Turks," Zarkali elaborates on how the Turks were driven out of Ta'if. He describes how Sharif Hussein sent his son, Prince Abdullah, with the purpose of evacuating the Turks from the city. Prince Abdullah successfully conquered Ta'if on the 26th of Dhu al-Qa'dah. Zarkali explains the circumstances of the battle, the forces sent with Prince Abdullah, and the details of what happened in this chapter of Ta'if in his book. This narrative provides a historical account of the significant events that shaped Ta'if's Islamic and political history.

In the section titled "Monuments of Ta'if," Zarkali discusses the historical sites in the Ta'if region, including ancient mosques, cemeteries, and religious monuments. He also talks about the mountains of Ta'if and then moves on to discuss the idols that once existed there. Although he did not find any remnants of these idols, he relays information he received about them, briefly discussing famous idols such as Al-Lat, Al-Uzza, Manat, Hubal, Wadd, Suwa, Yaghuth, Ya'uq, Nasr, Isaf, Naila, and Dhul-Khalsa, providing concise information about each idol.
Zarkali then shifts to discuss the notable figures of Ta'if, elaborating extensively on the martyrs of its battles, some known gravesites, and men and women of the Thaqif tribe. Next, in a section he names "Inside the Wall," referring to the wall of Ta'if, he focuses on its gates, neighborhoods, houses, and schools, as well as its literati. This section is dedicated to discussing the town itself and its surrounding villages, hence the title "Inside the Wall" to avoid confusion and to focus specifically on the city.

He elaborates on what lies within the city walls, discussing its three gates and the three neighborhoods of Ta'if. Zarkali also touches on the impact of war on the city, including the migration of its residents, and mentions his visit to the military barracks. Additionally, he talks about the schools in Ta'if, such as the Hashemite Charitable School, and the teachers and scholars who taught there. This comprehensive coverage provides a rich historical and cultural insight into Ta'if and its significance.

Zarkali then discusses the return routes to Mecca and emphasizes the importance of speaking about the Souk Okaz. He dedicates an entire section to detailing the market's organization and significance. Following this, he provides a brief summary of an agricultural mission brought in by Sharif in 1919, consisting of agriculture and mining experts from Syria. They toured Hejaz to conduct a study and presented Sharif with a detailed report on their findings.

In a new chapter titled "Around Ta'if," Zarkali focuses on the surrounding areas, including villages, orchards, mountains, valleys, wells, and fortresses. He mentions several concepts that need clarification before delving into this chapter to ensure the information is thoroughly conveyed. He then elaborates on the surroundings of Ta'if, offering valuable information about that period and its details, mentioning all the villages and areas they passed through with detailed explanations.

Zarkali moves on to another chapter, discussing the tribes of the Ta'if region (Utaiba, Thaqif, Shababe, Khundif), tracing their origins, lineage, and history. In a subsequent chapter, he talks about a book he found in Ta'if by the late Sheikh Osman al-Radi, a critique of Muhammad Labib Bey al-Batanuni's Hejazi journey. Zarkali extensively discusses Sheikh Osman and his book, mentioning various topics covered in it. This comprehensive coverage by Zarkali provides a rich historical and cultural insight into Ta'if and its environs.

In a chapter titled "The Epidemics," Zarkali discusses the individuals accompanying them on their journey and those they encountered along their caravan route, describing how they spent their time. He then shares his experience of falling ill, detailing the pain and difficulty he endured due to the lack of nursing methods in Ta'if. The illness reminded him of his homeland and his people.

Zarkali mentions that during his convalescence, he was visited by Prince Ali, who had come to Ta'if on some business. After his recovery, they continued their return journey along the same route they had initially taken. Although they had wanted to return via the "Yemeni route," they were advised against traveling that way. This chapter offers a personal glimpse into Zarkali's experiences and the challenges faced during his travels, including dealing with illness in an era with limited medical facilities.

In a new chapter titled "In the Hospitality of the King," Zarkali elaborates on his return to Mecca and talks extensively about King Hussein, discussing his news, history, sons, stories, and palaces. Zarkali delves into the character of Sharif Hussein, recounting what he learned about him and his personal observations. He describes Sharif Hussein as a skilled horseman and swordsman, with a talent for hunting that began in his youth. Zarkali also comments on Sharif Hussein's wisdom and sound judgment.

The chapter details the palaces of Sharif Hussein, their layouts, and divisions. Zarkali notes Sharif Hussein's strength, resilience, and stubbornness, emphasizing that he was not a man to be swayed by force. He points out that Sharif Hussein's conflict with the Unionists (Ittihadists) began when they deposed Sultan Abdul Hamid II. The Unionists attempted to establish branches of their parties in Mecca and Jeddah, but King Hussein opposed them, leading to their failure. This chapter provides a deep dive into the life and character of Sharif Hussein, offering a personal and historical perspective on this significant figure.

In his book, Zarkali includes the correspondence between Sharif Hussein and McMahon. He then discusses the beginning of the revolution against the Turks and the first gunshot, elaborating on the forces of Sharif Hussein, comprising the regular army and the Bedouin force. Zarkali talks about his tour in the desert and the Bedouin's expertise in tracking and natural intuition, narrating stories about the Wudayni and Kubbakbi tribes, practices in the Hudhayl tribe, processions, spear-riding, endurance of pain, illusions, and various transmitted tales and stories.

Zarkali also delves into the judicial law and courts among the Bedouin, discussing the methods of trial, the role of poetry in legal proceedings, judges from the Utaiba and Thaqif tribes, and the practice of oath-taking in court. He speaks about the Shammar tribe and explores other aspects of Bedouin life and their wars, drawing comparisons between the past and present, and discussing Bedouin poetry in both eras.

The book concludes with two poems by Sharif Hussein, followed by an account of Zarkali's return to Heliopolis in the final chapter. This comprehensive treatment offers a vivid insight into the historical, cultural, and social aspects of the Bedouin lifestyle and the significant events of the era.

It is observed that the general tone of Zarkali's writings before his arrival in Mecca primarily focused on the incidents he experienced or those in which his contemporaries participated, along with the prevailing political conditions. However, upon reaching Mecca, there is a noticeable shift in his writing style. He transitions to a descriptive approach, vividly narrating the new scenes he encounters. In Hejaz, Zarkali tends to describe what he sees, then explains it, and sometimes associates it with a historical event.

As the preface to his book indicates, Zarkali evolves from being an angry politician to a traveler and observer. This transformation is evident in his writings, where his earlier political and activist leanings give way to more reflective, explorative, and descriptive accounts of his travels and the environments he encounters. This shift highlights the depth and versatility of Zarkali's literary and observational skills, providing a rich and varied narrative experience.

ne of the distinctive features of Zarkali's book is his deviation from the usual approach of travel writers. He includes a concise summary of an agricultural mission commissioned by Sharif in 1919, consisting of agriculture and mining experts from Syria who toured Hejaz to conduct a study and presented Sharif with a detailed report on their findings and outcomes. This inclusion of a scientific and developmental perspective is somewhat unusual for travel literature of the time.

Furthermore, Zarkali's journey is rich in references and sources, including both manuscripts and printed materials, as well as newspapers. He documents inscriptions and writings he observed on rocks and tombs, adding a historical and archaeological dimension to his work. Additionally, his treatment of poetry and verse is noteworthy. He displays an ability to memorize and document a significant amount of oral poetry, which was commonly circulated among the Bedouins and not typically found in written form.

These aspects of Zarkali's book demonstrate his wide-ranging interests and capabilities, extending beyond mere travel narration to encompass historical, cultural, and literary dimensions. This comprehensive approach enriches the content and offers readers a multifaceted view of the Hejaz region during this period.

he latest edition of Zarkali's book, presented by the Hashemite Documentation Center, is a significant update, highlighting its historical and informational value in its contemporary context. This edition stands out for presenting the journey in a novel manner, with impartial and scholarly editing.

Key improvements in this edition include filling gaps present in previous editions, correcting spelling errors, and providing geographical references for the locations mentioned in the book. Additionally, it features a thorough documentation and dating of most events, drawing from original sources, and includes commentary on these events.

These enhancements not only make the book more accessible and reliable for readers but also ensure that it remains an important resource for understanding the historical, cultural, and geographical context of Zarkali's time. The meticulous attention to detail in this edition reflects a commitment to preserving and accurately conveying the rich narrative of Zarkali's travels and observations.

This edition of Zarkali's book addresses some errors he made regarding the naming and dating of historical events and names. These errors have been corrected by the editors in the footnotes of the book, with references to original sources and scientific documentation methods.

At the end of the book, there is a list of appendices containing a collection of photographs and manuscripts that may be of interest to researchers. The book also includes an index of names and a geographical index of places mentioned in the text, as well as a list of sources and references used in this revised and scientifically verified edition. These resources are invaluable for researchers and specialists.

The publications from the Hashemite Documentation Center are not translated into English. Institutions and publishing houses interested in publishing a translated version should contact the center at the following email address: Info@rhdc.jo. This offers an opportunity for broader access to these valuable historical resources for non-Arabic speaking audiences and researchers.